The Turban Jewel: A Glimpse into Murshidabad's Courtly Splendor

The Turban Jewel, a breathtaking example of enamelled gold meticulously set with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, a sapphire, and a pendant pearl, offers a fascinating window into the art, culture, and traditions of 18th-century Bengal. Originating from Murshidabad, these jewels were presented to Admiral Charles Watson by the Nawab of Bengal on July 26th, 1757, after the pivotal Battle of Plassey.

This piece is emblematic of the Murshidabad court's fashion during that era. Paintings, such as those depicting Aliverdi Khan with his grandson Siraj-ud-Daula (circa 1750-55), reveal that both figures adorned themselves with turban jewels of identical design. This suggests a deeply ingrained tradition of wearing such ornaments as symbols of status and power.

The Sarpech, also known as an aigrette, is a significant turban ornament with roots in early and medieval India. Worn by both Hindu and Muslim princes, the Sarpech held a prominent place in royal attire. The name itself, derived from the Persian words "Sar" (head/front) and "pech" (screw), literally signifies that which is affixed to the front of the turban. Known by various names across Persia (Jikka/Jiqa) and Turkey (Sorguch), the Sarpech, alongside the Kalgi, represents one of the two dominant forms of turban ornaments in India. The turban jewel, therefore, is more than just a beautiful object; it is a tangible representation of a rich cultural heritage and the artistic achievements of a bygone era.